Category: Trail Blog

Once I arrive in Portugal, I hope to provide daily progress of my journey to Santiago de Compostela.

  • Day 25 – train ride to Santiago

    Day 25 – train ride to Santiago

    October 5 – Happy Birthday Dad!

    I wish that I had visited this hostel in nicer weather.  There was a large yard with lots of outdoor seating.  But with it raining all day yesterday, we had to choose between the public room – a small kitchen and eating area for 12 – or hang out in our rooms.  

    I met my first Chinese person of the trek at dinner last night.  My bunkmates were two women, one from Germany and the other from South Korea.  

    With my leg bothering me, i spent most of my 18 hours at the hostel lying in my bunk.  Thank goodness for decent wifi and air pods.  

    It’s now 8 am – still 36 minutes to sunrise – and most of the 30+ people here have left or are about to.   I’ll be summoning my Uber ride to the train station shortly, but see no reason to get in the way of those heading on, as my train doesn’t depart until early afternoon. 

    My Tesla-powered Uber driver dropped me at the train station a little after 8:30.  There was not a soul there.  I could see on the reader board that there was an earlier train leaving at 9:36.  Unfortunately even though my ticket was exchangeable, the online app kept timing out as it went to confirm the change.  So faced with sitting in a vacant station on a hard metal bench for four hours, I decided to walk a few blocks into town. 

    I found a quiet neighborhood bar and ordered a latte and tosta.  

    I wandered through town briefly, but between a throbbing leg and most of the city not open on a Sunday morning, I decided to wait the final two hours at the station. 

    The train arrived promptly at 12:43.  A half dozen of us boarded and we were off again. Two stations up the line everyone on board needed to get off and onto a different train.  I had received an email about this last night and the helpful woman seated next to me showed me where the replacement train was.  At 2:06, exactly on time, the train pulled into the station in Santiago and my Camino reached a bittersweet end.

    I enjoyed lunch at a sidewalk cafe and then checked into my hotel room.  Given that I’ll be here for four nights while my leg rests, I was delighted by the size and amenities (based on my last month of accommodations).  

    I’m currently sitting in a laundromat washing nearly every article of cloths I brought along.  Good thing the weather has been warm so my long pants and shirt are clean and I had some items to wear.

    My hotel is listed as being “downtown” but is located on a quiet side street. It being Sunday, many shops were closed. I knew I was in a big city, but my location has a peaceful ambiance to it – perfect for my recuperation.

    When dinner time came, I ventured out again. I had seen a Donner Kabob place walking in from the train station and had been thinking of a Donner (like a Gyro) ever since. The nearest shop was a few hundred meters away, so I ventured towards the core city.

    As I rounded a corner two blocks from my hotel, I suddenly encountered a sea of people packed into dozens of sidewalk restaurants. I found my donner shop and went inside where a soccer game was playing on the big screen. The donner and the local Galicia Estella beer hit the spot.

    Time for a good night’s rest.

  • Day 24 – Mos to Redondela

    Day 24 – Mos to Redondela

    Oct 4

    The municipal Alberge was an interesting experience.  Both my roommate and I were in bed by 9 pm, but conversations echoed from the nearby public room until quiet time at 10:30.  I woke up a little after 7 and tiptoed to the bathroom so as not to awake Michangelo.  When I returned to room, to my surprise he was gone.  In fact, the entire Alberge was almost empty.  My eye ask and earplugs are very effective! Turns out, checkout time was 8 am – even though the sun wouldn’t rise for another 30 minutes. 

    Whereas yesterday I was able to do 20k before the pain started, today it was less than 5.   My leg is swollen and red and I have decided my plan to bus to Santiago and then walk back to Padron is foolish.  My walking ends today.  

    I reached my hostel on the northern end of Redondela about an hour and a half before it opened.  I decided to find a nearby place for lunch, only to discover there was nothing nearby.   Rather than backtrack, I continued forward and went 2 additional kilometers before finding an open bar.  

    I had hoped to catch up with my friend Meelis, who has been on the Litoral Route along the coast.  He sent me a marker of where he suggested we meet, but it looked to me to be well past where I had stopped for the day.  I told him “sorry” but would try to catch up again in Santiago. 

    As I was walking back to my hostel after my lunch, who did I bump into, but Meelis!   We had a nice chat under an oak tree as the rain came down  and hopefully we’ll see each other in Santiago as well. 

  • Making a plan

    Making a plan

    I’m dealing with this combination of realities:

    1. My leg injury has put me two days behind schedule 
    2. Given the tight hotel situation in Santiago, I have a prepaid, non-refundable room for three nights starting in 3 days (Oct 6)
    3. Based on my experience today, I need to limit my walking to avoid further damage to my leg.

    With those factors to work with, I’ve come up with the following plan:

    Oct 4 – walk just 10k to Redondela and spend the night there. My Estonian friend, Meelis, will be passing through and we’ll have lunch together. 

    Oct 5 – (Happy birthday, Dad!) catch a bus to Santiago and then walk back up the Camino 14k to Padron.  I have reservations at a hostel there that is supposed to be one of the best in Spain. 

    Oct 6 – walk back into Santiago – hopefully with some members of my Camino family. 

    Oct 6-9.  Enjoy the sights of Santiago and greet friends as they arrive. 

    Oct 9 – take a bus to Finistere and spend the night 

    Oct 10 – take a bus back to Porto.  

    That leaves me with four nights to split between Porto and Lisbon before my final night in Lisbon, already booked near the airport. 

  • Day 23 – Tui to Mos

    Day 23 – Tui to Mos

    Oct 3

    I woke up about 7:20 and saw that it was still pitch black outside. I slowly got myself up, dressed and packed and when I looked outside again at 8 o’clock it was still very dark.  And then noticed that it was foggy outside, and that was keeping the sun, which was now starting to rise, from showing through.

    I started my walk at 8:30 and had about 2.5 km to intercept the Camino. Once on the trail, it took me another kilometer before I started encountering any pilgrims. I was beginning to wonder if I was way behind or way ahead of the pack. And then suddenly around the bend I could see lots and lots of pilgrims. 

    At the 5 km mark, I found a little roadside snack bar and stopped in for a coffee and breakfast. I was soon joined by a woman named Suzanne from Massachusetts and we began chatting. As we were comparing people we met along the trail, I learned that Cristi, the woman with a severe sunburn from my second day, was still moving forward and had stayed in an alberge with Suzanne just a couple nights prior. I was so happy to hear that, as she was so miserable after that second day. I feared she might have given up.

    The next couple of kilometers followed a two-lane highway that was lightly traveled with a wide pedestrian walkway. The road traveled through forest that looked more native than any had seen so far, with a mixture of oak, pine and a few eucalyptus with an undercover of ferns. 

    The trail eventually veered away from the road.  About half of today’s distance was on a packed dirt/gravel mix that was far more comfortable than cobblestone.  

    There are  so many people on the trail now that we’re at the last starting point.  I chatted with dozens of folks today – most American – and added people from Montana, Michigan, Florida and Indiana to my bingo card.  I had a friendly chat with the three Hoosiers about next week’s top ten matchup when Indiana comes to Autzen Stadium.  

    My leg felt okay for about the first 20 kilometers today.  Unfortunately, I went 26 and the last few were a trial.  The option of hopping on a bus and skipping a few stages looms large in my mind.  We’ll see how I feel in the morning.  

    I’m staying in my first true Municipal Alberge tonight.  It’s run by the city of Mos.  There are 34 beds,  but it’s broken down into smaller rooms.  I’m in a room with one single bed and a bunk bed.  I wasn’t early enough to grab the single, but I do have the lower bunk. 

    This Alberge is a veritable united nations.  So far, I’ve only encountered one other English speaker.  My roommate, Michelangelo, is from Spain and speaks about as much English as I do Spanish.