Author: Greg H

Note:  I’ve learned the correct spelling of some of my new Camino friends.  I’ll use those going forward and will eventually fix prior posts.

It ended up that only me & Meelis slept in our room for four.  He didn’t snore. I hope I showed the same courtesy.  

Today’s stage was another 30k+ trudge through more agricultural land.  Yesterday’s tomatoes are giving way to corn and grapes.  

There are few towns along the way today, but the longest stretch without services is only 12k. 

Unfortunately, it’s getting hotter.  Yesterday topped out at 28 (82).  Today’s high is forecast for 30 (86). 

My first rest stop was 12km out in the village of Vale de Figueira.  There was a lovely cafe/patisreria with a large shaded courtyard.  It seems that every pilgrim stoped there to rest and refuel.  I met a couple from Idaho (John & Sherry) and a Aussie just said that the extended forecast is highs near 35 (95 F) for the rest of the week.

I had a coffee, a ham & cheese pastry, a beer and bought a 1.5 liter bottle of water.  Total bill €5.29.  The water was the most expensive item. 

Leaving Figueira, it was another 12km to the next town of Azinhaga.   Between the towns mostly was just corn.  There were a few vineyards, tomato fields and even a eucalyptus tree farm.  But mostly it was just corn, corn and more corn.  

It’s Sunday and the dining choices in this small town were limited.  Google maps showed three places to eat in town.  The first was crowded, the second closed since April and the third was nowhere to be found. I went back to the first place and discovered that although all there outside tables were taken, there was plenty of space inside. 

A word about dining in Portugal:  except at dinner houses, everywhere I’ve eaten requires you to go up to a counter to order.  They give you your drink and then you seat yourself.  They bring the food you order to you.  When you are finished, you bring your dishes back to the counter and pay. 

Initially, the woman at the counter said they didn’t serve food there.  I saw a rack of potato chips behind the counter so I ordered a bag to go with my beer. Then she said we do have ham and cheese sandwiches so I ordered one of those as well. 

The sandwich was quite tasty and as I was about to finish, Dan walked in. He just ordered a Coke and a large bottle of water and was ready to go so he took off before me.

Down the trail a couple of kilometers I caught back up with him and he and I finished the last 4K into the town of Golegã together.

Although there were several places to stay in Golegã, the Golegã Inn seemed to be the common place for the tribe I have been developing. Although our reservations were made separately, I was placed in a double room with Dan; Meelis was next-door with a bicyclist from South Africa; and John and Sherry were in the room on the opposite side of us.

Dan,  Meelis and I walked to the grocery store and purchased some food for that afternoon as well as for the morning. We waited until 7 PM when the restaurants open for dinner and in the interim we pooled our wet stinky clothes and paid 5 Euro to use the washing machine and dryer at the Inn. 

Just as we were leaving for dinner. Sheena walked in totally beat from her 32K day. We three boys headed off to dinner with Sheena promising to join us soon. We walked into a place just down the street and we’re the only customers there until John and Sherry happened in. Eventually Shana caught up with us as well and we spent nearly three hours on dinner.  

Tomorrow the goal is to make Tomar, an ancient city with a castle built by the knights of Templar.  Sheena, who is doing the Camino in one week sessions is being picked up by friends.  Dan & Meelis are thinking of stopping short and not going the full 32k tomorrow.  John & Sherry have reservations in Tomar, so are going the distance.  

Tomar was scheduled to be my first rest day city, so I’ve made reservations at a proper hotel with private bath & everything!