It feels a little funny calling a day with 25,000 steps a rest day, but since none of those steps was carrying a backpack, it was definitely a rest day.
I allowed myself to be really lazy and hung around in bed until the 8 AM breakfast at my hotel. served as part of the package.
Breakfast: ham, cheese, bread, juice and do-it-yourself latte with a pitcher each of espresso and heated milk.
After eating breakfast, I wandered over to a nearby Merdato, which is essentially a farmers market in a permanent structure. Lots of fruit and vegetable stands as well as a fish market and several butcher shops all under one roof.
Mercado
I wandered up the street to explore town a little and walk-through both the courtyard of a church under repair and what appeared to be an ancient cemetery. However I discovered most of the graves were from the 1880s or newer.
Interesting gravestones
After dropping off my groceries at the hotel, I wandered up the hill to the Castle of Tomar, which I wrote about in a previous post.
I wanted to see the aquaduct that fed the castle and was told it was only about 1.5k up the hill. I started my walk only to have my phone app continue to increase the distance even though I was heading in the correct path. Given that the temperature was approaching 90°, and I had only a small portion of water left. I decided to abandon that effort and went back down the hill.
Near my hotel was a café with a beer tap and I ordered a large beer expecting to get something akin to a pint. Instead, I was brought a huge beer stein, which I felt obligated to finish.
After that, it was back to my room for a shower and a nap.
Late afternoon I made another excursion out to buy some bottled water and some grapes for my hike tomorrow.
I then met up with John and Sherry for dinner and we had a delightful evening together. They are planning to go further tomorrow than I do, but we will hopefully catch up further down the trail.
In 1160 after successfully driving the Moors out of Portugal, the Knights Templar were granted land in Tomar where they built a castle fortress. For approximately 150 years, the Castle of Tomar was their headquarters for the Templars. In the early 1300s. the Templars were disbanded – something to do with debts of the king of France and a deal made with the pope.
At that time, a convent (what I would call a monastery) was constructed adjacent to the castle. The two structures together are massive – just the gardens inside of the castle walls measure 65 acres.
I can’t do this structure justice by describing it with words so I’ll let pictures tell the story.
A view of the Castle wallsFrom the wall looking down into the orchard You can walk around most of the ramparts Even the shooting ports are in the shape of the crossA guardhouse at the far end of the castle wall. A fireplace to keep them warm on cold nightsA view of the city of Tomar from the Castle wallThe castle keepThe angle base of the castle walls was a defensive technique to make it difficult for siege enginesOne of the castle GatesA Knight, Templar greeting at the gateA 3-D model of the compound. The convent at the lower half and the cast in the upper half.One of four inner courtyards within the convent A chapel with tiled wallsExterior view of the convent The tile work was exquisiteAnother of the courtyardsThe main sanctuaryThe other end of the sanctuaryA prayer roomArchitectural detail wherever you lookAnother courtyardThe priority with 40 cells for the friars who lived at the convent A narrow circular staircaseCourtyard #4 The rectoryStaircase down to the cisternThe sister filled by an aqueduct that extended for 6.6 kmCourtyard Oil storage roomAquaduct
It’s another 30+ kilometer day and the forecast is for more hot, sunny skies. I decided to get an early start and left the hostel in the dark around 5:30.
With sidewalks and street lamps, the first couple of kilometers were easy-going. After I left the city and headed back into the countryside, I used my headlamp on low setting – more for making me visible to any oncoming vehicles than for illumination. In over 5 km of walking before dawn, I only encountered two cars.
As dawn was breaking, I arrived in the village of Sao Caetano.
About a half an hour earlier I had looked down at my watch to see how far I’d gone only to see the red lightning arrow indicating low power. Although my watch had been on the charger all night, it didn’t charge.
I ended up wrapping the band of my watch around the battery pack and placing it in a pocket of the pack to ensure the connection stayed in place.
As I walked the next several kilometers through eucalyptus forest, discovered the freedom of not having a tracker on my arm all of the time.
After several days in the flatlands of the Tagus River Valley today marked the first trek into the hillside through wooded countryside. While some appeared to be original native forest, most had been groomed as an agricultural crop, and the trees grew and neat tidy rows.
For most of the journey, I didn’t experience the unique scent of eucalyptus until near the top of the hill. I reached a section that had been planted only a few years ago with trees only a couple of meters high. The smell of sweet eucalyptus was extremely pleasant.
Eventually I descended out of the forest and into the town of Asseiceiria. As I write this, I am enjoying a beer in a café next-door to the ruins of an old hospital with a plaque dedicated to the last battle of the Portuguese Civil War of 1834.
Ruins from a battle of the Portuguese Civil War. The rebels surrendered after losing nearly 3,000 men in the battle.
This afternoon, I will arrive in the city of Tomar and have booked a hotel for two nights stay as I enjoy my first rest day of the trip.
Tomar is a large city (pop. 40,000ish). Coming into larger towns can be a little depressing because you pass the sign that you’ve entered, but still have several kilometers to reach the city center.
After entering the city limits, my path veered off the shoulder of a highway and continued for a few kilometers on a gravel service road along the train tracks.
As I write this section, I’m killing time in a lovely air conditioned cafe waiting for the time I can check in.
I am very ready for my rest day. I’ve done 20+ miles each of the last four days. My feet are rebelling against me. This afternoon I took off my shoes & socks and walked the last two kilometers into Tomar in my plastic sandals.
I’ve now checked into the hotel and for the first time since I arrived in Portugal, I have a private bathroom! And is a special bonus I’ve discovered that it has a tub. Well, not actually a full-size bathtub but a section of the shower that’s deeper than the rest suitable for soaking your feet. What a nice surprise!
Happy feet!
I’ve soaked my feet, taking a shower, wash my clothes and had a short nap. My devices are all charged and I think it’s time to go out and explore till Tomar.
Leaving Golega in the dark. A little chapel in Sao CaetanoOutside of Sao Caento is this creepy ghost town. Lots of buildings with collapsed tile roofs and not a soul around. This district has these handy signs as you enter town indicating the services available. Vila Nova de Barquinha had this cool church listed on the national historic register Sometimes trail signs are improvised. This one as I entered the eucalyptus forest After days of flat terrain, this hill was a bit shocking. Meelis passing me in the forest Water was plentiful. I counted at least five places where you could fill water bottles Bumper crop of prickly pear Giving my feet a breather for the last 2kCity street in Tomar central district with the Templar castle on the hill in the background
Note: I’ve learned the correct spelling of some of my new Camino friends. I’ll use those going forward and will eventually fix prior posts.
It ended up that only me & Meelis in our room for four. He didn’t snore. I hope I showed the same courtesy.
Today’s stage was another 30k+ trudge through more agricultural land. Yesterday’s tomatoes are giving way to corn and grapes.
There are few towns along the way today, but the longest stretch without services is only 12k.
Unfortunately, it’s getting hotter. Yesterday topped out at 28 (82). Today’s high is forecast for 30 (86).
My first rest stop was 12km out in the village of Vale de Figueira. There was a lovely cafe/patisreria with a large shaded courtyard. It seems that every pilgrim stoped there to rest and refuel. I met a couple from Idaho (John & Sherry) and a Aussie just said that the extended forecast is highs near 35 (95 F) for the rest of the week.
I had a coffee, a ham & cheese pastry, a beer and bought a 1.5 liter bottle of water. Total bill €5.29. The water was the most expensive item.
Leaving Figueira, it was another 12km to the next town of Azinhaga. Between the towns mostly was just corn. There were a few vineyards, tomato fields and even a eucalyptus tree farm. But mostly it was just corn, corn and more corn.
It’s Sunday and the dining choices in this small town were limited. Google maps showed three places to eat in town. The first was crowded, the second closed since April and the third was nowhere to be found. I went back to the first place and discovered that although all there outside tables were taken, there was plenty of space inside.
A word about dining in Portugal: except at dinner houses, everywhere I’ve eaten requires you to go up to a counter to order. They give you your drink and then you seat yourself. They bring the food you order to you. When you are finished, you bring your dishes back to the counter and pay.
Initially, the woman at the counter said they didn’t serve food there. I saw a rack of potato chips behind the counter so I ordered a bag to go with my beer. Then she said we do have ham and cheese sandwiches so I ordered one of those as well.
The sandwich was quite tasty and as I was about to finish, Dan walked in. He just ordered a Coke and a large bottle of water and was ready to go so he took off before me.
Down the trail a couple of kilometers I caught back up with him and he and I finished the last 4K into the town of Golegã together.
Although there were several places to stay in Golegã, the Golegã Inn seemed to be the common place for the tribe I have been developing. Although our reservations were made separately, I was placed in a double room with Dan and Meelis was next-door and John and Sherry were in the room on the opposite side of us.
Dan, Meelis and I walked to the grocery store and purchased some food for that afternoon as well as for the morning. We waited until 7 PM when the restaurants open for dinner and the interim we pooled our wet stinky clothes and used the washing machine and dryer that they had at the Inn.
Just as we were leaving for dinner. Sheena walked in totally beat from her 32K day. The three boys headed off to dinner with Sheena promising to join us soon. we walked into a place just down the street and we’re the only customers there until John and Sherry happened in n. Eventually Shana caught up with us as well and we spent nearly three hours on dinner.
Tomorrow the goal is to make Tomar, an ancient city with a castle built by the knights of Templar. Sheena, who is doing the Camino in one week sessions is being picked up by friends. Dan & Meelis are thinking of stopping short and not going the full 32k tomorrow. John & Sherry have reservations in Tomar, so are going the distance.
Tomar was scheduled to be my first rest day city, so I’ve made reservations at a proper hotel with private bath & everything!
Pre-dawn street in SantaremSantarem has over 60 catholic churches. Here’s oneAnd anotherAnd one moreThe walk out of Santarem included the first true trail of the Camino Sometimes in towns you have to look hard for the trail markers It’s harvest season, but not every grape makes it to crushVineyard leaves turning redThe only shade for a long stretch was beside this irrigation pumphouse. Tomato harvest My tasty ham & cheese lunchIt’s election season as well. His shirt says he supports the socialist partyI love the contrast. Electronic key code to get in the front door then skeleton key for the room. Golega is a world renowned center for horse breeding.
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