Greg's Wanderings

Author: Greg H

  • Day 3 – September 13

    Day 3 – September 13

    According to the guidebook, today’s stage was 32 km long ending in the town of Santarem. My feet are sore and my original plan was to cut the day in half and stop near the midpoint of Valdera. But when I reached Valdera, I discovered that all of the hotels in town were booked and the alberge, which only slept six didn’t open up for another 5 1/2 hours ..

    Given that choice, I decided I should march on to Santarem. My original hesitation had mostly to do with the fact that between the two towns there were 16 km (10 miles) with no services whatsoever.   Just a gravel road going through farmland, comprised primarily of tomatoes and vineyards.

    As with yesterday, shade was at a premium. Although I am still walking at my 5KM plus per hour pace I am taking more stops and giving my feet rest every 3 to 5 km. When lunchtime approached I was just passing the 20 km mark and still 12km from the nearest services. I found a bend in the road with shade trees that provided a sufficient refuge for my lunch.

    While sitting here, Maris, the Estonian who slept in the bunkhouse with me last night, walked by. In conversation, he advised me that there was no alberge in Santarem and all of the facilities there have potential for reservations. He strongly encouraged me reserve a bed before we got there. I pulled up booking.com and discovered that the hostel that he was staying in only had two beds left so I quickly reserved one of them.

    Shade was so rare that when there was a tree, you’d find 2-3 pilgrims under it getting some relief.

    The day was grueling, but the hostel is very new and modern.  I understand it sleeps 94, but the rooms are smaller.  Mine only has two bunkbeds in it. Maris has the other lower bunk and we’re waiting to see who are roommates are.  

    I am very grateful that Thomas the Dane will not be one of them.  He’s checked in to another room.  That dude was the loudest snorer I’ve ever been around and every time he switched positions, it was like an earthquake.  

    I’ve now walked 90,000 step in the past two days. Unfortunately, that trend continues as the next three days are all listed as over 30k.

    Sunrise over a canal
    Tomato fields mid-harvest
    The road was littered with tomatoes falling from trucks
    Stork nests
    Tagus river
    Snails like power poles too
    Ancient and modern trail markers
    Red pepper harvest
    Tons of bikers on the trail today
    Grape harvesting machine
    After 30 kilometers of hiking, it’s depressing to see your destination up on top of a hill
    Ancient fountains for the pilgrims. Sorry about the finger in the frame
  • First night in alberge

    First night in alberge

    By staying in hotels with shared baths the past few nights, I kind of dipped my toes into the pool of alberge living – but it was definitely the shallow end and only the tip of my toes.

    Shoes are left by the front door

    The Azambuja perigrino alberge qualified as the deep end.   Accommodations for 15 in one room – 7 sets of bunk beds and one mattress on the floor.  A toilet room with two stalls – and a door so thin everyone could hear whatever was going on.  A wash room with two private shower stalls and two sinks.

    The common room featured a large dinner table, a very comfy couch and a small kitchen.

    Common room

    There was a walled back yard with a utility sink with built-in scrub-board for washing clothes.  A few small round tables and chairs.  But the major feature was the multiple clothes lines all in use drying the day’s sweaty clothing.  

    When you are living in such tight communal spaces, there are certain etiquettes to be practiced.  

    Last night, New Zealand Dan, Tennessee Christi and I went down the street for dinner.  Christi and I were both Camino rookies.  In contrast, Dan was doing his 20th.  I had read before how important it is to be quiet in the sleeping area – especially if you are an early riser (like me).  Dan said he always has his pack fully set before going to sleep.  Anything needed in the morning is in his hat.  You roll out of bed, grab your hat, pack and whatever you had for sleeping and take them out to the community room to finish packing.  

    Unfortunately, when we returned to the alberge from our dinner at around 8 PM, the sleeping porch lights were off and half a dozen people were already asleep. So I was not able to fully put this plan into place. But I have the strategy now and will make sure in the future that I can grab and go quickly. 

  • Day 2 – September 12

    Day 2 – September 12

    I started my walk at 7 AM, a little bit before official daybreak. The first 6 km of today’s journey were along a busy highway. For the most part, there were sufficient sidewalks or at least asphalt outside of the fog line, but occasionally things got tight. Drivers are very courteous and always pulled towards the center lane as they approached. 

    Today I met my first fellow pilgrims on the trail. As I was entering the town of Alhandra, I noticed two men with backpacks up ahead. I caught up with them as they attempted to find the transition from the city street to a river walk. They were both from South Korea and spoke relatively good English so we chatted for a while. 

    By the time I reached my destination of Azambuja, I had met six pilgrims:  four from South Korea, one each from France and Scotland.  

    Questioning my pace

    I like to walk fast.  On hikes by myself I’ll often walk 3.5mph (a little over 5kpm).  And now I find myself doing the same here in Portugal.  

    But why?  I was lucky yesterday that my hotel was ready at 1 pm, but my alberge for this evening didn’t even open until 3 pm.  

    Earlier today, the two Korean guys stopped along the riverwalk as soon as they found a bench with shade.  In my head I thought “no, I have to keep going because I’m stopping in Xira after hiking for 2 hours.”

    A bit later I realized there was no reason I couldn’t do both.  This isn’t a race.  It’s not like it’s high season and the last one there may not get a room.  From this point on, I vow slow down a bit, take more beaks and enjoy what there is around me.  

    I did stop in Xira at a cute cafe called “Croassanteria da Praca”.  The pastry was delicious and the tiny cup of coffee was so strong that for the first time in my life I added sugar.  The bill:  €2.2

    Coffee break in Xira

    The majority of today’s trail can be summed up as follows: flat, straight and devoid of shade. In one 7km stretch the only shade was a highway overpass and a small olive grove (12 trees). At one point I ventured off trail a bit to sit in the shade of a parked semi trailer.

    Tonight, I’m staying in a true alberge.  There are beds for 15 and as of just before 6 pm, 13 are claimed.  Only the Frenchman, Dominique from the trail today is here.  I learned that there are 12 South Koreans traveling through and they are all staying elsewhere.  

    I haven’t met everyone here yet, but there are guys from Estonia, UK, New Zealand, Denmark and France; and women from Belgium and the US (Portland by coincidence). In hope to hear where the others are by dinner time. 

    The cool thing about this melting pot is that English is the common language.  

    My hotel from last night
    The start of the Riverwalk for 4km
    Bougainvillea lining the riverwalk.
    Distance markers on the trail
    Lots of places to stop and rest.
    The bull fighting ring in Xira
    Evidence that Bullfighting continues
    Flat and straight, but at least this section has shade
    Fellow pilgrims ahead.
    The Camino provides. In this case, with a porta potty
    If I was doing the Fatima pilgrimage, I’d only have 100km to go
    Field of Roma tomatoes
    I noticed these snails on many bushes
    Long, straight and shadeless
  • Dinner across the street

    Dinner across the street

    Most places don’t serve dinner until 7 pm.  The hole-in-the-wall place across the  street was no exception. 

    After a false start at 6:35, I arrived back at 7:05 as a flood of people entered.  The place seemed to be a favorite of both families and blue collar workers alike.  Four large tables were occupied by big, burly men in matching t-shirts.  

    A favorite place for the locals

    The menu was scratched on two chalkboards and all options were the same price: €12.50. And that included soup and wine.

    My waiter had limited English skills (but far more than my Portuguese).  We started with the basics: meat or fish?  Meat.  Steak or chicken? Chicken.  Soup?  Yes. 

    I ordered red wine, which brought a small glass and a half liter carafe.  The rustic bread already on the table was fabulous.  

    My half chicken arrived barbecued and cut into four pieces.  Like every other plate around me, at came with a large scoop of rice and a heap of French Fries.  

    The Portuguese do love their starches and fries are ubicitius.  So far, the only mean I’ve been served without fries came with potato chips.  

    I finished my soup, chicken, bread and rice and made a small dent in the pile of fries.  I made a noble effort on the wine too, but I did need to stumble back across the street.  

    I’m hoping the vino helps me sleep until at least 5:30 tomorrow morning. This waking up before 5 is getting old.  

    One of the side benefits of walking 30-40 thousand steps a day is that you can pretty much eat whatever you want. I intend to continue to try new things and find these hole-the-wall gems.

    I met my first fellow pilgrims tonight. My nextdoor neighbors are two sisters from Quebec. They don’t seem quite as adventurous…they ate at Pizza Hut tonight.