Tag: Vilarinho

  • Day 17 – Vilarinho to Barcelos

    Day 17 – Vilarinho to Barcelos

    Sept 27

    After I posted last night’s entry, our host brought out a tray with Port wine and some cakes from a local  bakery.   We learned that she and her husband just opened a second alberge on the Coastal route and so they are each managing one by themselves.  

    We were joined by six people staying in a second building across the street.  At our end of the table was Jeff from Massachusetts and Johan from Munich.  At the other end were four Spaniards from Seville.  

    After the wine, Lena, Ana, Roum and I went down the street to the only cafe open past 7 pm.  The man greeted us and apologized that his wife – the usual cook – had surgery that day and he only knew how to prepare one dish.  We all ordered the beef with French fries.   He did a great job and the meal included a fried egg and a salad.  

    Saturday Morning:

    After a brief stint walking out of town along a paved road, I came to the nicest stretch of the Camino so far.  Pastoral scenes of corn fields in various stages of harvest. The path, a mixture of cobblestone roads, dirt service tracks and some gravel.  For more than 10km just peaceful beauty and two ancient Romanesque bridges. The first dates back to at least 1185 when it is first mentioned in written history.  

    The sky has been overcast and a little ominous.  Tropical storm Gabrielle is spinning offshore, but it’s course is to our south and the forecast here is for rain overnight of less than an inch.  

    The hike continued to be pleasant with very little along busy roads.  In part that was because I chose to take two variants.  I assume the historical Camino in some areas grew up and highways eventually replaced the original routes.  These variants got us off the noisy roads and into more countryside.  

    Tonight, I’m staying in a private room a bit off the Camino.  My Oregon Ducks have a night game against Penn State that starts at 12:30 am Sunday.  I’m going to try to get a few hours rest before my alarm goes off at midnight and will finish my sleep after the game. 

  • Day 16 – Porto to Vilarinho

    Day 16 – Porto to Vilarinho

    Sept 26

    I didn’t want to get going this morning.  Not sure if it was because of the long walk out of a large city or that I didn’t know when (or if) I would see my Camino family again.  

    I decided to eliminate the first issue by taking a metro part of way out of the city.  

    After my failed attempt at riding the metro in Lisbon, I decided to face the challenge. No problem.  The ticket machine instructions were clear and available in many languages.  For €2.20 a bought a reloadable transit card and a 3-zone fare to get me to Custio.  

    Despite waiting until 9:00, the train was pretty packed, but I was able to find a seat.  

    Getting off at Custio, the road the Camino was following was literally the overpass of the train stop.  After another 5k of walking, I felt like the city was finally being left behind. 

    I’m writing now during my 10k rest at a little cafe.  So far, I’ve seen no familiar faces. I did pass two pilgrims in another cafe speaking French and two girls stopped into the cafe for a pilgrim stamp.  Leslie was from Canada (BC) and had just started today from Porto.  Kelsey was from Dallas, Texas and began in Coimbra last week. 

    I reached my Alberge for the night at 1:40.  They open at 2.  There was one other pilgrim waiting when I arrived and then my friend Lena arrived before the host opened the building. 

    The hostel is nondescript from the outside – a basic rectangle of concrete.  But inside is a nice courtyard and large yard with both sunny and shady areas. 

    I’m in a 3-bunkbed room.  My roommates are Lena; Noam from Israel and Ana from Spain.  I’ve been in co-ed bunk rooms before but this is the first time I’ve been the only guy. 

    Shower taken. Laundry done. Blog almost finished.  Life is good.