Greg's Wanderings

Tag: Vila Verde

  • Dinner on the Farm

    Dinner on the Farm

    I meant to post this last night, so this is my Wednesday dinner…

    Part of the reason I chose to stay in Vila Verde were the rave reviews of the dinners they served.  

    When I arrived and discovered Andrus’ wife, Lea was in Lisbon for the day and that I was the only guest arriving in time for dinner, I was concerned dinner might not live up to my expectations.  Boy was I wrong.  

    First course was cream of pumpkin soup, with carrots and sweet potatoes.  Andrus apologized that the sweet potatoes were store bought, but said the other vegetables were from his garden.  The course was served with grilled bread – topped with olive oil – from their orchard – and Estonian rye bread.

    Second course was Estonian smoked chicken (smoked, then baked, then covered with mayonnaise and paprika); fries; riced, cooked with pepper corn and other spices; and a garden salad – literally from the garden.  Even the olive oil and lemon juice dressing were from the farm.  

    Dessert was a homemade ice cream with orange peal.  A perfect top off.  

    After fixing my meal, Andrus excused himself to go care for the animals.  The farm has sheep, pigs, chickens, ducks, geese and quail.  

    As I sit here watching the sunset, it’s hard to think of a more pleasant place to be: surrounded avocado, olive and citrus trees. 

    Just as I was heading for bed, the other two guests for the night arrived. A very pleasant couple from Israel. When I said I was from Oregon, they said “oh we love Oregon”. They spent two months in an RV traveling across the western US.  For the second time today, someone mentioned Multnomah Falls after I said I was from Oregon.

  • Day 7 – Sept. 17 – Tomar to Vila Verde

    Day 7 – Sept. 17 – Tomar to Vila Verde

    The heat wave continues. However, since I only had about 21K to go today, I didn’t get out the door until 7 AM.

    At the edge of Tomar, the Camino splits, sending walkers down a narrow path along the river. Bicyclists (and hikers in the rainy season) have a less picturesque route.

    Hikers get the pretty route

    Today’s trek went through many small villages, but most of them had little to no services to offer pilgrims. I think in part because of my rest day, I have encountered many people today that I have not seen on the trail before. I assume that they didn’t take a rest day and started the day after I did.

    I stopped for coffee and pastry in the small village of Soianda. I was soon joined by Barney, the Aussie. Barney injured his knee just prior to Santarem and decided to continue his journey via bicycle after until his knee feels better. He found a bike on Facebook marketplace for €50 and plans to ride it until he reaches Porto where he will give it away.

    Barney is an interesting cat. If you saw them on the street, you’d likely give them a wide berth. He’s got a shaved head and tattoos all the way up to below his chin, but he’s a really nice guy who is a social worker back home in Australia.  He says he is planning to take his 80 year-old mother on one of the shorter Caminos next year.

    Barney (Australia) with Jennifer (Tennessee) outside a hostel – one of the few places to stop for a beverage today.

    The list of countries of people I have met continues to grow.  Today I met my first Italian and Croatian.  I’ve now met people from 18 different countries.

    I arrived at the village of Vila Verde almost 90 minutes before my check in time. Since there hadn’t been a place to stop for lunch along the way, I found a café near my hostel and had a delicious lunch of roasted chicken, baked potatoes, rice, and salad for a fixed price meal also included a beer and pudding for dessert (€10.50).

    When I reached the hostel, I felt I had died and gone to heaven. This is the loveliest place I’ve stayed on this Camino and quite frankly in a very long time anywhere.

    Since I’m not traveling with anyone, I have a double room for just myself with a shared bath with one other room. According to Andrus, my host, he expects to have a total of three guests tonight.

    I am currently sitting under the shaded courtyard with a bar and a salted swimming pool. I’m waiting for the sun’s rays to be a little less direct before I hop in.

    I’ve hand-washed my clothes and they are drying in the hot Portugal sun. I expect they will be drying fast faster than if I was putting them in the dryer at home.

    The walk along the river Trail was the most stereotypical trail I’ve been on so far.
    Where the Rio Nabao Splits. The near bank feeds a canal that runs the watermill in Tomar.
    Ancient bridge
    Simple chapel
    “Main Street”
    Fortunately, fountains with non-portable water or well marked
    Lunch: €10.50 inclusive of beer & dessert
    My home for the night: Herdade di Luce
    Guest kitchen
    Dining & common room (air conditioned)
    Salt water pool
    Courtyard bar
    Covered area to relaxed adjacent to the bar