The municipal Alberge was an interesting experience. Both my roommate and I were in bed by 9 pm, but conversations echoed from the nearby public room until quiet time at 10:30. I woke up a little after 7 and tiptoed to the bathroom so as not to awake Michangelo. When I returned to room, to my surprise he was gone. In fact, the entire Alberge was almost empty. My eye ask and earplugs are very effective! Turns out, checkout time was 8 am – even though the sun wouldn’t rise for another 30 minutes.
Whereas yesterday I was able to do 20k before the pain started, today it was less than 5. My leg is swollen and red and I have decided my plan to bus to Santiago and then walk back to Padron is foolish. My walking ends today.
I reached my hostel on the northern end of Redondela about an hour and a half before it opened. I decided to find a nearby place for lunch, only to discover there was nothing nearby. Rather than backtrack, I continued forward and went 2 additional kilometers before finding an open bar.
I had hoped to catch up with my friend Meelis, who has been on the Litoral Route along the coast. He sent me a marker of where he suggested we meet, but it looked to me to be well past where I had stopped for the day. I told him “sorry” but would try to catch up again in Santiago.
As I was walking back to my hostel after my lunch, who did I bump into, but Meelis! We had a nice chat under an oak tree as the rain came down and hopefully we’ll see each other in Santiago as well.
The first truly rainy day. First time I had to wear my raincoatOld Roman milestoneMorning bread delivery I stopped at a bar that had not yet opened, but the bakery had made their deliveryBreakfast empanada My swollen and red left leg.
I woke up about 7:20 and saw that it was still pitch black outside. I slowly got myself up, dressed and packed and when I looked outside again at 8 o’clock it was still very dark. And then noticed that it was foggy outside, and that was keeping the sun, which was now starting to rise, from showing through.
I started my walk at 8:30 and had about 2.5 km to intercept the Camino. Once on the trail, it took me another kilometer before I started encountering any pilgrims. I was beginning to wonder if I was way behind or way ahead of the pack. And then suddenly around the bend I could see lots and lots of pilgrims.
At the 5 km mark, I found a little roadside snack bar and stopped in for a coffee and breakfast. I was soon joined by a woman named Suzanne from Massachusetts and we began chatting. As we were comparing people we met along the trail, I learned that Cristi, the woman with a severe sunburn from my second day, was still moving forward and had stayed in an alberge with Suzanne just a couple nights prior. I was so happy to hear that, as she was so miserable after that second day. I feared she might have given up.
The next couple of kilometers followed a two-lane highway that was lightly traveled with a wide pedestrian walkway. The road traveled through forest that looked more native than any had seen so far, with a mixture of oak, pine and a few eucalyptus with an undercover of ferns.
The trail eventually veered away from the road. About half of today’s distance was on a packed dirt/gravel mix that was far more comfortable than cobblestone.
There are so many people on the trail now that we’re at the last starting point. I chatted with dozens of folks today – most American – and added people from Montana, Michigan, Florida and Indiana to my bingo card. I had a friendly chat with the three Hoosiers about next week’s top ten matchup when Indiana comes to Autzen Stadium.
My leg felt okay for about the first 20 kilometers today. Unfortunately, I went 26 and the last few were a trial. The option of hopping on a bus and skipping a few stages looms large in my mind. We’ll see how I feel in the morning.
I’m staying in my first true Municipal Alberge tonight. It’s run by the city of Mos. There are 34 beds, but it’s broken down into smaller rooms. I’m in a room with one single bed and a bunk bed. I wasn’t early enough to grab the single, but I do have the lower bunk.
This Alberge is a veritable united nations. So far, I’ve only encountered one other English speaker. My roommate, Michelangelo, is from Spain and speaks about as much English as I do Spanish.
Foggy view from my hotel window Quiet roads with dedicated pedestrian lanesThe Camino markers have begun to include remaining distance to Santiago down to the meter. If you zoom in, this one is 113.89km to go Typical path today of packed dirt with some gravelThis pretty little stretch followed a creek on an elevated rock path. You could almost always see more pilgrims ahead today The city of O Porrino offered this variant avoiding a busy street and following this stream for 3kmThe name of the nature area Less than 100km to go!. 99.840 to be exactView if Mos from the Alberge balconyEven if you order breakfast for dinner, it comes with fries.
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