Sept 29
Almost exactly three weeks ago, I walked out my front door and started my Camino adventure. It’s hard to believe that my time here is over half over.
When I first decided to walk the Camino, I thought I would try to average 15 miles (23km) per day and with 3 rest days approximately a week apart, I would arrive in Santiago in one month from Sept 11 when I stated. Now, after less than 20 days of walking I am a few days ahead of schedule and am contemplating my options.
My options include diverting and taking the Spiritual Variant; an extended stay in Santiago; continuing my walk to Finisterra (the end of the world according to the Roman’s); more days exploring Lisbon and taking a short flight across to Morocco. I have time to do more than one option, but not enough to do all. As accommodations in Santiago can be challenging, I need to finalize when I plan to arrive in the next day or two.
I’m currently sitting in a pastry shop about 16km from my end point for the day in Labruja. The hostel for the night doesn’t open until 4 pm, so I’m killing time – and getting a charge on my watch the didn’t set properly on the battery pack last night. I am afraid I’m getting addicted to a morning espresso and a sweet pastry.
Last night surpassed the night in the donotivo as the most fun so far. Topping off a wonderful dinner with singing songs was really special. It sounds like at least six of us from last night have booked to the same hostel for tonight, so a new Camino family is forming.
The hike today started late, as Fernanda’s husband Jacinto made everyone breakfast.
The first 8k has mostly been they a rural landscape punctuated by passing tractors and roadside livestock.
As I sit here waiting for my watch to charge, various familiar faces have come in. First, Taya & Nuom, the 20-somethings whom have bonded and are walking together since Taya’s mom is having knee problems and is currently traveling by Uber.
Dave & Tory have just come in, accompanied by Sue, the British woman I walked out of Barcela with yesterday.
After I left the bakery I passed more countryside and a few villages, all lacking in pilgrim services (cafes, mercados or snack bars).
I then came to the city of Ponte de Lima, which most guidebooks listed as the destination for the prior stage. Just as I was coming into town, I started having pain in both my right knee and hip. I found a park bench along the Rio Loma and have my legs a long rest.
By this time, it was past 1 pm and I was getting hungry for lunch. But all the restaurants along the river were fancy and overpriced for this pilgrim. I figured there would be a Cafe down the way soon.
‘Soon’ turned out to be two hours later, as the way was devoid of any towns with services. After following the lovely Rio Labruja for about a kilometer, I found an open Cafe with riverside seating.
My hostel tonight has many familiar faces: Stefan, Ana & I are sharing one room with a new guy, Richard from Belgium. Richard retired from the Army two years ago. He and Ana have a connection in that he served three tours with the UN Peacekeeping forces in Croatia.
Dave, Tory and Nuom are in the next room with Nina from Germany. Ruth & Taya have a shared double room. Nina may join our Camino family, but Richard is averaging over 55k a day, so he’ll be past us tomorrow.
Our host Cecile made us a tasty, but simple dinner and a really yummy flan dessert.
