I didn’t want to get going this morning. Not sure if it was because of the long walk out of a large city or that I didn’t know when (or if) I would see my Camino family again.
I decided to eliminate the first issue by taking a metro part of way out of the city.
After my failed attempt at riding the metro in Lisbon, I decided to face the challenge. No problem. The ticket machine instructions were clear and available in many languages. For €2.20 a bought a reloadable transit card and a 3-zone fare to get me to Custio.
Despite waiting until 9:00, the train was pretty packed, but I was able to find a seat.
Getting off at Custio, the road the Camino was following was literally the overpass of the train stop. After another 5k of walking, I felt like the city was finally being left behind.
I’m writing now during my 10k rest at a little cafe. So far, I’ve seen no familiar faces. I did pass two pilgrims in another cafe speaking French and two girls stopped into the cafe for a pilgrim stamp. Leslie was from Canada (BC) and had just started today from Porto. Kelsey was from Dallas, Texas and began in Coimbra last week.
I reached my Alberge for the night at 1:40. They open at 2. There was one other pilgrim waiting when I arrived and then my friend Lena arrived before the host opened the building.
The hostel is nondescript from the outside – a basic rectangle of concrete. But inside is a nice courtyard and large yard with both sunny and shady areas.
I’m in a 3-bunkbed room. My roommates are Lena; Noam from Israel and Ana from Spain. I’ve been in co-ed bunk rooms before but this is the first time I’ve been the only guy.
Shower taken. Laundry done. Blog almost finished. Life is good.
My train pulling away after getting off in Custio13k from Porto and finally some quiet country roadsWe’ll be seeing more cyclists now, as you must ride at least 200km to get your Credential. Porto is 227km, so a logical starting point. A quiet natural area as I approach VilarinhoChilling out in the backyard of the hostel
I walked across the Dom Louis bridge and into Porto shortly after 2 PM yesterday. I had a little bit over a kilometer to go and a 3 o’clock appointment with my apartment host Florebela. I decided to get as close as possible and then just wait outside until she arrived to let me in.
Turning a corner onto a wide street with sidewalk cafés I saw Dan, Marcia and Eda enjoying a beer in the shade. They invited me to join them and before I could even reply, Dan had requested two cervejas from the server.
After a quick beer and learning that those in town, we’re going to get together that evening for dinner, I headed up the hill to check into my apartment.
Florebela was an effervescent lady. Maybe 4 foot 10, wearing bright colored clothes and speaking very loudly. We walked up four flights of stairs to my apartment and showed me around. I have a lovely view of the city, but mostly of the five story parking garage adjacent to the apartment. It will be nice having a private bath, a kitchen, a living room with a TV and a soft comfy bed for the next two nights.
I took a shower and then washed every piece of clothes I’ve worn so far on the trail. This meant I was only left with running leggings and a long sleeve wool shirt to wear while my clothes dried on the balcony. Fortunately, the sun was bright and with the light breeze, my clothes were dry within a couple of hours.
I decided to venture down the street and check out the neighborhood. I’m in a very vibrant district of many shops. I found a mini market and bought a can of shaving cream and made a failed attempt at shaving off the beard that’s grown over the last two weeks . I think more blood was shed than hairs were cut.
I got a text from Barney that the group was meeting by river for dinner. I arrived to find Aldo, Dan, Marcia, Eda, Jennifer, Barney, and Mijla already there.
From left: Aldo (France ), Dan (NZ), Marcia (Croatia), Eda (Denmark), Jennifer US), Barney (Australia), Milja (Finland)
To this point, I haven’t tried any of the seafood that Portugal is famous for, so I decided to have calamari for dinner. It was quite good.
As we were completing our meal, we were joined by young guy named Elliott from Connecticut that Jen and Barney had met earlier in the day. He’s been hiking around Europe, the Middle East and Northern Africa for several months. He had been camping in the forest on the other side of the river.
Thursday
I woke up and was extremely slow getting out of bed. Eventually, I remembered the bakery around the corner and decided it was a must for breakfast. I bought a chocolate croissant for breakfast and a beautiful roll to go with the ham and cheese I purchased last night at the mini market 2 doors down from my apartment .
After enjoying my breakfast, I did a little research and plotted my next few days of walking and made reservations.
I walked down the hill with a rough idea of where the Porto Cathedral was, found it without issue and got my pilgrim stamp for the day.
I then continued down dozens of more steps to the river level and crossed over the Dom Louis Bridge to where all of the port warehouses are located. This area just screams tourist trap to me and I am making do with the purchase of a Pepsi while I decide whether or not to take one of the river cruises along the Douro river.
Decision made, I spent €18 for a one hour cruise crossing under the six bridges of Porto. The cruise gave a nice perspective of the city from water level. I met a nice couple from Montreal who were sitting near me.
River cruise photos:
Mosterio da Serra do PilarStaircase from the river level to the upper city. 296 steps – I counted themPart of the old city wall. At one time, it was 3,000 paces in length The old and new railroad bridges Maria Pia railway bridge. Designed by Gustave EiffelUnderside of the railway bridge RiverwalkOne of the many tour boats on the waterOne of the churches visible from the riverOld battlements protecting the cityPonte da Arribida bridge. When built, it was the largest concrete arch in the world One of six river cruise ships in Porto today. The old shipworks.
After the cruise, I decided to get some lunch and walked up the row of restaurants until I saw a picture of bolinhos de bacalhau (codfish fritters) – a local specialty and something I had been meaning to try. I also ordered a tasting flight of Ports. Both the fritters and wine were delicious.
After five decent sized tastings I needed to go slow. A few paces down the way, a three piece musical group from Brazil was playing an REM cover. I stopped to listen and ended up staying for their full concert.
Time to head home for a shower, nap and phone recharge.
A tribute to SardinesA church one block from my apartment and adjacent to the mertroThe Cathedral of PortoIf you don’t want to take the funicular for €4 you can walk up the 296 steps. Port bottles aged 10-50 yearsMy port flight (white, sweet white, rose, tawny & ruby) and Cod FrittersStreet band playing great musicLower deck of the Dom Luis bridge crowded with pedestrians Tasty sandwich from the shop on my blockSunset from my balcony
It’s 11:30 AM as I start today’s blog. I’ve already come 16 km and have less than 10 to reach Porto. I’m currently taking a break sitting on a bench looking at an old Catholic Church adjacent to a cemetery.
I just finished a snack consisting of a roll left over from last night’s dinner, some sliced cheese I’ve been carrying for several days in my Tupperware and a fresh tomato I just picked up at a fruit stand a few minutes ago.
I have 3 1/2 hours before I am meeting the woman I am renting the apartment from for the next two nights, so I am in no hurry to keep going.
Porto is a significant milestone in this journey. On the BuenCamino app I’ve been using, it ends the first portion of the trip. It also represents approximately 60% of the total distance to be traveled. That I have come this far in only two weeks suggest I certainly don’t need two more weeks to get to Santiago as I had originally envisioned so now I have some decisions to make.
The Camino family I have collected so far will be breaking up – at least temporarily. Some are finishing here in Porto; others are taking the coastal route while I will continue on the central route. The two routes merge together further down the trail, so it won’t necessarily be the last time I see those people.
And we have WhatsApp to keep in touch with each other and to share photos.
The weather, the last few days has been most pleasant each morning has been successively warmer than the previous. When I started hiking today, it was 13 which equates to roughly 56°F. It has been quite breezy, which has made it even more comfortable.
Most of the walk today has been very urban in nature. There was a brief section of a few hundred meters along an old Roman Road that was pleasant but for the most part it’s been on sidewalks and city streets. Where there are roads that parallel the main highway, the Camino takes the quieter roads, but nonetheless lots and lots of pavement.
No sooner did I write those words than I encountered a treat. I had given up all hope of getting off city streets for the next couple of days when the road surface changed to an old Roman road and started up a hill. The road became more of a path and before I knew it, I was in the most natural area I think I’ve encountered in Portugal. This went on for over 3 kilometers, eventually leading down a rocky gully on the other side of the hill and into a residential neighborhood.
I’m now just 5km from Porto and two hours from my check in appointment.
I stopped at a supermarket and bought a coke, which I’m now enjoying on a bench in the shade of a bus shelter.
I met a new guy on the trail today that I’d yet to see before. His name is Quentin and he’s from France. Unlike the rest of us, he has been camping out along the way. He said he has yet to stay in an alberge. With his hair in a mohawk of dreadlocks, his giant backpack and dirty clothes he looks much more like a PCT through-hiker than your typical pilgrim.
I’ll sign off for now and talk about Porto tomorrow.
On my app, it literally said “old Roman road”I finally snagged a photo of Barney on his too small bike. Cool muralThe start of the trail into the woodsView of Porto from the woods above The trail narrows to a rocky ravinePorto from across the river Bridge crossing over to Porto.
The day ahead promised to be pleasant weather-wise and tonight’s hostel did not have check-in until 3 PM. So I was in no hurry to get on the trail. I slept in till almost 7:30. Our host had a nice breakfast laid out for us and it was a little hard to say goodbye to Paulo and his French volunteer.
I am writing this segment as I’m taking my 15K break at a café and having an ice cold Coca-Cola. I had stopped at 5K at a café and ran into several people who left earlier than I from our donativo as well as Simon, Paul and Amelia who had spent the night a little further up the trail.
So far today, we have been mainly on sidewalks and pavement, going up and down numerous hills.
I am trying very hard to resist the urge to look at my phone app and instead rely on the yellow arrows marking our path and common sense as to which way to go when it is unclear.
So far that is only got me into trouble one time when I was busy watching kids waiting to catch a bus and missed an intersection where I should’ve turned right. After a few hundred meters of not seeing any arrows I give in to temptation and look at my map. Sure enough, I had missed a turn just before the kids and took the two long sides of the triangle instead of the hypotenuse.
I arrived at our hostel at 2:45 – 15 minutes before they open. There is an attached bar, so I order a beer and wait. In a few minutes, Simon (Australia) joins me. Then Paul (Germany) and Amelia (Finland).
I’m sharing a room today with Meelis and Phillipe who only speaks French. The good news is that we have an attached bathroom and for the first time in three nights I won’t need to get dressed to go outside to access a bathroom.
While we’re waiting for the adjacent restaurant to open, Dan, Meelis, Marcia, Eda and I are enjoying the few remaining rays of sunshine on a patio in back of the hostel.
Tomorrow, on to Porto and my second rest day.
Tiny Library in BrancaI guess those old stone walls need occasional maintenance You can visit the shrine, but know you’ve taken a wrong Camino turnMy shadow in the N1 highway belowPumpkins!Part of today’s trek was REALLY close to the train tracks The best part of today’s waalkI snapped the photo when he looked happy, but he was snarling at me Re-cobbling the streetChurch in Oliveira de AzemeisAn old corn silo. Designed to be mouse proof. While the roads were not too busy, some were lacking in the shoulder department Church in Sao Joao da MadeiraAnother church in Sao JoaoMy first glimpse of the Atlantic Eda, Dan & Marcia trying to find the last rays of sun.
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