Tag: Camino Portugues

  • Day 4 – Sept 14

    Day 4 – Sept 14

    Note:Ā  I’ve learned the correct spelling of some of my new Camino friends.Ā  I’ll use those going forward and will eventually fix prior posts.

    It ended up that only me & Meelis in our room for four.Ā  He didn’t snore. I hope I showed the same courtesy. Ā 

    Today’s stage was another 30k+ trudge through more agricultural land.Ā  Yesterday’s tomatoes are giving way to corn and grapes. Ā 

    There are few towns along the way today, but the longest stretch without services is only 12k.Ā 

    Unfortunately, it’s getting hotter.Ā  Yesterday topped out at 28 (82).Ā  Today’s high is forecast for 30 (86).Ā 

    My first rest stop was 12km out in the village of Vale de Figueira.Ā  There was a lovely cafe/patisreria with a large shaded courtyard.Ā  It seems that every pilgrim stoped there to rest and refuel.Ā  I met a couple from Idaho (John & Sherry) and a Aussie just said that the extended forecast is highs near 35 (95 F) for the rest of the week. Ā 

    I had a coffee,Ā  a ham & cheese pastry, a beer and bought a 1.5 liter bottle of water.Ā  Total bill €5.29.Ā  The water was the most expensive item.Ā 

    Leaving Figueira, it was another 12km to the next town of Azinhaga. Ā  Between the towns mostly was just corn.Ā  There were a few vineyards, tomato fields and even a eucalyptus tree farm.Ā  But mostly it was just corn, corn and more corn. Ā 

    It’s Sunday and the dining choices in this small town were limited.Ā  Google maps showed three places to eat in town.Ā  The first was crowded, the second closed since April and the third was nowhere to be found. I went back to the first place and discovered that although all there outside tables were taken, there was plenty of space inside.Ā 

    A word about dining in Portugal:Ā  except at dinner houses, everywhere I’ve eaten requires you to go up to a counter to order.Ā  They give you your drink and then you seat yourself.Ā  They bring the food you order to you.Ā  When you are finished, you bring your dishes back to the counter and pay.Ā 

    Initially, the woman at the counter said they didn’t serve food there.Ā  I saw a rack ofĀ potato chips behind the counter so I ordered a bag to go with my beer. Then she said we do have ham and cheese sandwiches so I ordered one of those as well.Ā 

    The sandwich was quite tasty and as I was about to finish, Dan walked in. He just ordered a Coke and a large bottle of water and was ready to go so he took off before me.

    Down the trail a couple of kilometers I caught back up with him and he and I finished the last 4K into the town of Golegã together.

    Although there were several places to stay in Golegã, the Golegã Inn seemed to be the common place for the tribe I have been developing. Although our reservations were made separately, I was placed in a double room with Dan and Meelis was next-door and John and Sherry were in the room on the opposite side of us.

    Dan,Ā  Meelis and I walked to the grocery store and purchased some food for that afternoon as well as for the morning. We waited until 7 PM when the restaurants open for dinner and the interim we pooled our wet stinky clothes and used the washing machine and dryer that they had at the Inn.Ā 

    From left: John-Boise, Meelis-Estonia, Greg-Portland , Sheena-Scotland , Dan-New Zealand, Sherry-Boise

    Just as we were leaving for dinner. Sheena walked in totally beat from her 32K day. The three boys headed off to dinner with Sheena promising to join us soon. we walked into a place just down the street and we’re the only customers there until John and Sherry happened in n. Eventually Shana caught up with us as well and we spent nearly three hours on dinner. Ā 

    Tomorrow the goal is to make Tomar, an ancient city with a castle built by the knights of Templar.Ā  Sheena, who is doing the Camino in one week sessions is being picked up by friends.Ā  Dan & Meelis are thinking of stopping short and not going the full 32k tomorrow.Ā  John & Sherry have reservations in Tomar, so are going the distance. Ā 

    Tomar was scheduled to be my first rest day city, so I’ve made reservations at a proper hotel with private bath & everything!

  • Day 3 – September 13

    Day 3 – September 13

    According to the guidebook, today’s stage was 32 km long ending in the town of Santarem. My feet are sore and my original plan was to cut the day in half and stop near the midpoint of Valdera. But when I reached Valdera, I discovered that all of the hotels in town were booked and the alberge, which only slept six didn’t open up for another 5 1/2 hours ..

    Given that choice, I decided I should march on to Santarem. My original hesitation had mostly to do with the fact that between the two towns there were 16 km (10 miles) with no services whatsoever. Ā  Just a gravel road going through farmland, comprised primarily of tomatoes and vineyards.

    As with yesterday, shade was at a premium. Although I am still walking at my 5KM plus per hour pace I am taking more stops and giving my feet rest every 3 to 5 km. When lunchtime approached I was just passing the 20 km mark and still 12km from the nearest services. I found a bend in the road with shade trees that provided a sufficient refuge for my lunch.

    While sitting here, Maris, the Estonian who slept in the bunkhouse with me last night, walked by. In conversation, he advised me that there was no alberge in Santarem and all of the facilities there have potential for reservations. He strongly encouraged me reserve a bed before we got there. I pulled up booking.com and discovered that the hostel that he was staying in only had two beds left so I quickly reserved one of them.

    Shade was so rare that when there was a tree, you’d find 2-3 pilgrims under it getting some relief.

    The day was grueling, but the hostel is very new and modern.Ā  I understand it sleeps 94, but the rooms are smaller.Ā  Mine only has two bunkbeds in it. Maris has the other lower bunk and we’re waiting to see who are roommates are. Ā 

    I am very grateful that Thomas the Dane will not be one of them.Ā  He’s checked in to another room.Ā  That dude was the loudest snorer I’ve ever been around and every time he switched positions, it was like an earthquake. Ā 

    I’ve now walked 90,000 step in the past two days. Unfortunately, that trend continues as the next three days are all listed as over 30k.

  • First night in alberge

    First night in alberge

    By staying in hotels with shared baths the past few nights, I kind of dipped my toes into the pool of alberge living – but it was definitely the shallow end and only the tip of my toes.

    Shoes are left by the front door

    The Azambuja perigrino alberge qualified as the deep end. Ā  Accommodations for 15 in one room – 7 sets of bunk beds and one mattress on the floor.Ā  A toilet room with two stalls – and a door so thin everyone could hear whatever was going on.Ā  A wash room with two private shower stalls and two sinks.

    The common room featured a large dinner table, a very comfy couch and a small kitchen.

    Common room

    There was a walled back yard with a utility sink with built-in scrub-board for washing clothes.Ā  A few small round tables and chairs.Ā  But the major feature was the multiple clothes lines all in use drying the day’s sweaty clothing. Ā 

    When you are living in such tight communal spaces, there are certain etiquettes to be practiced. Ā 

    Last night, New Zealand Dan, Tennessee Christi and I went down the street for dinner.Ā  Christi and I were both Camino rookies.Ā  In contrast, Dan was doing his 20th.Ā  I had read before how important it is to be quiet in the sleeping area – especially if you are an early riser (like me).Ā  Dan said he always has his pack fully set before going to sleep.Ā  Anything needed in the morning is in his hat.Ā  You roll out of bed, grab your hat, pack and whatever you had for sleeping and take them out to the community room to finish packing. Ā 

    Unfortunately, when we returned to the alberge from our dinner at around 8 PM, the sleeping porch lights were off and half a dozen people were already asleep. So I was not able to fully put this plan into place. But I have the strategy now and will make sure in the future that I can grab and go quickly.Ā 

  • Day 2 – September 12

    Day 2 – September 12

    I started my walk at 7 AM, a little bit before official daybreak. The first 6 km of today’s journey were along a busy highway. For the most part, there were sufficient sidewalks or at least asphalt outside of the fog line, but occasionally things got tight. Drivers are very courteous and always pulled towards the center lane as they approached.Ā 

    Today I met my first fellow pilgrims on the trail. As I was entering the town of Alhandra, I noticed two men with backpacks up ahead. I caught up with them as they attempted to find the transition from the city street to a river walk. They were both from South Korea and spoke relatively good English so we chatted for a while.Ā 

    By the time I reached my destination of Azambuja, I had met six pilgrims:Ā  four from South Korea, one each from France and Scotland. Ā 

    Questioning my pace

    I like to walk fast.Ā  On hikes by myself I’ll often walk 3.5mph (a little over 5kpm).Ā  And now I find myself doing the same here in Portugal. Ā 

    But why?Ā  I was lucky yesterday that my hotel was ready at 1 pm, but my alberge for this evening didn’t even open until 3 pm. Ā 

    Earlier today, the two Korean guys stopped along the riverwalk as soon as they found a bench with shade.Ā  In my head I thought ā€œno, I have to keep going because I’m stopping in Xira after hiking for 2 hours.ā€

    A bit later I realized there was no reason I couldn’t do both.Ā  This isn’t a race.Ā  It’s not like it’s high season and the last one there may not get a room.Ā  From this point on, I vow slow down a bit, take more beaks and enjoy what there is around me. Ā 

    I did stop in Xira at a cute cafe called ā€œCroassanteria da Pracaā€.Ā  The pastry was delicious and the tiny cup of coffee was so strong that for the first time in my life I added sugar.Ā  The bill:Ā  €2.2

    Coffee break in Xira

    The majority of today’s trail can be summed up as follows: flat, straight and devoid of shade. In one 7km stretch the only shade was a highway overpass and a small olive grove (12 trees). At one point I ventured off trail a bit to sit in the shade of a parked semi trailer.

    Tonight, I’m staying in a true alberge.Ā  There are beds for 15 and as of just before 6 pm, 13 are claimed.Ā  Only the Frenchman, Dominique from the trail today is here.Ā  I learned that there are 12 South Koreans traveling through and they are all staying elsewhere. Ā 

    I haven’t met everyone here yet, but there are guys from Estonia, UK, New Zealand, Denmark and France; and women from Belgium and the US (Portland by coincidence). In hope to hear where the others are by dinner time.Ā 

    The cool thing about this melting pot is that English is the common language. Ā