Day 33 – Exploring Lisbon - Greg's Wanderings

Oct 13

I may have generalized the differences between hostel and Alberge too much.

I’m now staying in a hostel called The Central House and I couldn’t be more pleased. While I’m staying in another mixed bunk room, there are only six beds and they are arranged to add privacy.

This panoramic shot shows the bed arrangement. One bunk plus storage lockers to the left. I’m standing in front of the bathroom, to the right of the door. The other two sets of bunks are on each side of a privacy wall. My bunk is down the lighted hallway beside the window.

I’m not even sure how many beds were occupied last night. The bunk above me was empty and there are at least two others here, but they were so quiet and considerate.

While we share a bathroom, it’s located inside our room and we even have an electronic door lock. And for the first time since getting to Europe, there is an elevator to reach my 5th floor room!

My bunk pod is by the window, which has a small balcony looking down to the street below. With my earplugs, the city noise was not an issue.

After my morning routine, I went downstairs to a really nice breakfast buffet included with my room. I was out the door by 8:10 and the first to arrive at the laundromat one block away. With a little luck, I’ll be done with my domestic chores before most tourists are out and about.

My first mission of the day is to ride the infamous #28 trolley, which is typically picked with riders. I’m hoping an early start will let me get a jump on most folks.

I was able to get on the first trolley passing by. I had to stand for one stop, but then a seat opened up and I had a grand view of the narrow streets and beautiful views.

Trolly ride video through the narrows streets

While riding the trolley, I remembered seeing a billboard yesterday for an Earthquake Museum. I located it several miles from my current location. Hoping off the trolley as we passed a Metro station, I took the subway back to city center and then a light rail train towards the city of Belem.

The Quake museum was fantastic. Those who know me are aware of my interest in emergency preparedness, and this museum did not disappoint. It’s quite new and has a variety of interactive exhibits.

The highlight is a 4D reinactment of the the November 1, 1755 quake while sitting in Mass. The full-wall CG animation starts as the acolytes come in and light the candles. About 3 minutes into the service, your seat make a violent jerk. You end up “riding” your pew seat for a few minutes as you see the candles start the drapes on fire, candelabras crash to the floor and eventually, the entire alter in front caves in, leaving you with a view of the devastation beyond.

I’ve cut to just before things start to get really bumpy. Be sure to have the sound on.

As you leave the cathedral simulator, the next room provides information about the fires that devastated the city. You read, listen and watch while infrared lights make you feel the heat.

Learning about the rebuild of Lisbon is another truly remarkable tale. It essentially gave root to the disciple of urban planning.

Heading back into Lisbon, I knew I would be riding through the neighborhood I stayed in last month. I wanted to see if I could find the restaurant where I had the hot rock steak. I was pleased with how familiar the area looked and I was able to walk right back to the restaurant and get the name so I can find it tonight in the dark.

The 48-hour transit pass came as two separate 24-hour vouchers. To stretch my time a little further, I planned my last afternoon excursion so I’d arrive right before my ticket expired and then I’ll walk down the hill to my hostel for a siesta.

The last stop was Castelo de Sao Jorge, overlooking Lisbon from it’s highest point. The castle dates from the late 12th Century, but was used by the Moors during their occupation of Portugal and discoveries of Iron Age structures prove the site was used since at least the 7th century BC.

After a quick siesta, my phone & body were both recharged. I headed to the closest Metro station to activate my second 24-hour pass. I then went back to the surface and caught one of the old trolleys back to the place with hot stone steak. I arrived shortly after their 7 pm opening. Good thing too, as there was a line waiting for tables by 7:15.

The meal was very good, but not as good as the first time. I decided to go elsewhere for dessert so I could free up my table.

While looking for an interesting dessert place, I realized I was retracing the very first day of my Camino. Only this time it was dark and I knew where I was going.

I ended up going back to the hostel and asking for a recommendation. What they suggested, did not disappoint.