Sept 23
It’s cold outside. For the first time, the morning temperate is in the single digits (7 C/44 F) with a high expected of only 22 (71 F).
As I’m typing this, it’s 5 am and I’m trying to be silent so I don’t wake my three bunkmates: Meelis (Estonia), Paul (Germany) & Amelia (Finland).
It’s roughly 75km to Porto, the next major city. It’s the starting point for most people doing the Camino Portuguese and a decision point as the trail splits. Some, like my friend Meelis will choose the coastal route and stay near the ocean for about a week. Others, such as the Italians Nicos, Cristiano and Mariana will be going home, as they are only on a two-week holiday.
For me, I am choosing the traditional Central Route after an extra rest day in Porto.
But before reaching Porto and the crowds that wait beyond, we have two more nights where nearly everyone on the trail is a friendly face.
The walk today was a combination of small villages, eucalyptus “forests” (more like recently planted tree farms) and lots of encounters with the N1 Highway – over, under, across and alongside.
Tonight I will be having my first experience in a donotivo alberge. It is run by a veteran of many pilgrimages and you pay what you can afford. Dinner and breakfast are provided.










