Greg's Wanderings

Category: Trail Blog

Once I arrive in Portugal, I hope to provide daily progress of my journey to Santiago de Compostela.

  • Day 5 – Sept 15 – Golega to Tomar

    Day 5 – Sept 15 – Golega to Tomar

    It’s another 30+ kilometer day and the forecast is for more hot, sunny skies.  I decided to get an early start and left the hostel in the dark around 5:30. 

    With sidewalks and street lamps, the first couple of kilometers were easy-going. After I left the city and headed back into the countryside, I used my headlamp on low setting – more for making me visible to any oncoming vehicles than for illumination. In over 5 km of walking before dawn, I only encountered two cars. 

    As dawn was breaking, I arrived in the village of Sao Caetano.  

    About a half an hour earlier I had looked down at my watch to see how far I’d gone only to see the red lightning arrow indicating low power. Although my watch had been on the charger all night, it didn’t charge.

    I ended up wrapping the band of my watch around the battery pack and placing it in a pocket of the pack to ensure the connection stayed in place. 

    As I walked the next several kilometers through eucalyptus forest, discovered the freedom of not having a tracker on my arm all of the time.

    After several days in the flatlands of the Tagus River Valley today marked the first trek into the hillside through wooded countryside.  While some appeared to be original native forest, most had been groomed as an agricultural crop, and the trees grew and neat tidy rows.  

    For most of the journey, I didn’t experience the unique scent of eucalyptus until near the top of the hill. I reached a section that had been planted only a few years ago with trees only a couple of meters high. The smell of sweet eucalyptus was extremely pleasant. 

    Eventually I descended out of the forest and into the town of Asseiceiria.  As I write this, I am enjoying a beer in a café next-door to the ruins of an old hospital with a plaque dedicated to the last battle of the Portuguese Civil War of 1834.

    Ruins from a battle of the Portuguese Civil War. The rebels surrendered after losing nearly 3,000 men in the battle.

    This afternoon, I will arrive in the city of Tomar and have booked a hotel for two nights stay as I enjoy my first rest day of the trip. 

    Tomar is a large city (pop. 40,000ish).  Coming into larger towns can be a little depressing because you pass the sign that you’ve entered, but still have several kilometers to reach the city center.  

    After entering the city limits, my path veered off the shoulder of a highway and continued for a few kilometers on a gravel service road along the train tracks.  

    As I write this section, I’m killing time in a lovely air conditioned cafe waiting for the time I can check in. 

    I am very ready for my rest day. I’ve done 20+ miles each of the last four days.  My feet are rebelling against me.   This afternoon I took off my shoes & socks and walked the last two kilometers into Tomar in my plastic sandals.

    I’ve now checked into the hotel and for the first time since I arrived in Portugal, I have a private bathroom! And is a special bonus I’ve discovered that it has a tub. Well, not actually a full-size bathtub but a section of the shower that’s deeper than the rest suitable for soaking your feet.  What a nice surprise!

    Happy feet!

    I’ve soaked my feet, taking a shower, wash my clothes and had a short nap. My devices are all charged and I think it’s time to go out and explore till Tomar.

    Leaving Golega in the dark.
    A little chapel in Sao Caetano
    Outside of Sao Caento is this creepy ghost town. Lots of buildings with collapsed tile roofs and not a soul around.
    This district has these handy signs as you enter town indicating the services available.
    Vila Nova de Barquinha had this cool church listed on the national historic register
    Sometimes trail signs are improvised. This one as I entered the eucalyptus forest
    After days of flat terrain, this hill was a bit shocking.
    Meelis passing me in the forest
    Water was plentiful. I counted at least five places where you could fill water bottles
    Bumper crop of prickly pear
    Giving my feet a breather for the last 2k
    City street in Tomar central district with the Templar castle on the hill in the background
  • Day 4 – Sept 14

    Day 4 – Sept 14

    Note:  I’ve learned the correct spelling of some of my new Camino friends.  I’ll use those going forward and will eventually fix prior posts.

    It ended up that only me & Meelis in our room for four.  He didn’t snore. I hope I showed the same courtesy.  

    Today’s stage was another 30k+ trudge through more agricultural land.  Yesterday’s tomatoes are giving way to corn and grapes.  

    There are few towns along the way today, but the longest stretch without services is only 12k. 

    Unfortunately, it’s getting hotter.  Yesterday topped out at 28 (82).  Today’s high is forecast for 30 (86). 

    My first rest stop was 12km out in the village of Vale de Figueira.  There was a lovely cafe/patisreria with a large shaded courtyard.  It seems that every pilgrim stoped there to rest and refuel.  I met a couple from Idaho (John & Sherry) and a Aussie just said that the extended forecast is highs near 35 (95 F) for the rest of the week.  

    I had a coffee,  a ham & cheese pastry, a beer and bought a 1.5 liter bottle of water.  Total bill €5.29.  The water was the most expensive item. 

    Leaving Figueira, it was another 12km to the next town of Azinhaga.   Between the towns mostly was just corn.  There were a few vineyards, tomato fields and even a eucalyptus tree farm.  But mostly it was just corn, corn and more corn.  

    It’s Sunday and the dining choices in this small town were limited.  Google maps showed three places to eat in town.  The first was crowded, the second closed since April and the third was nowhere to be found. I went back to the first place and discovered that although all there outside tables were taken, there was plenty of space inside. 

    A word about dining in Portugal:  except at dinner houses, everywhere I’ve eaten requires you to go up to a counter to order.  They give you your drink and then you seat yourself.  They bring the food you order to you.  When you are finished, you bring your dishes back to the counter and pay. 

    Initially, the woman at the counter said they didn’t serve food there.  I saw a rack of potato chips behind the counter so I ordered a bag to go with my beer. Then she said we do have ham and cheese sandwiches so I ordered one of those as well. 

    The sandwich was quite tasty and as I was about to finish, Dan walked in. He just ordered a Coke and a large bottle of water and was ready to go so he took off before me.

    Down the trail a couple of kilometers I caught back up with him and he and I finished the last 4K into the town of Golegã together.

    Although there were several places to stay in Golegã, the Golegã Inn seemed to be the common place for the tribe I have been developing. Although our reservations were made separately, I was placed in a double room with Dan and Meelis was next-door and John and Sherry were in the room on the opposite side of us.

    Dan,  Meelis and I walked to the grocery store and purchased some food for that afternoon as well as for the morning. We waited until 7 PM when the restaurants open for dinner and the interim we pooled our wet stinky clothes and used the washing machine and dryer that they had at the Inn. 

    From left: John-Boise, Meelis-Estonia, Greg-Portland , Sheena-Scotland , Dan-New Zealand, Sherry-Boise

    Just as we were leaving for dinner. Sheena walked in totally beat from her 32K day. The three boys headed off to dinner with Sheena promising to join us soon. we walked into a place just down the street and we’re the only customers there until John and Sherry happened in n. Eventually Shana caught up with us as well and we spent nearly three hours on dinner.  

    Tomorrow the goal is to make Tomar, an ancient city with a castle built by the knights of Templar.  Sheena, who is doing the Camino in one week sessions is being picked up by friends.  Dan & Meelis are thinking of stopping short and not going the full 32k tomorrow.  John & Sherry have reservations in Tomar, so are going the distance.  

    Tomar was scheduled to be my first rest day city, so I’ve made reservations at a proper hotel with private bath & everything!

    Pre-dawn street in Santarem
    Santarem has over 60 catholic churches. Here’s one
    And another
    And one more
    The walk out of Santarem included the first true trail of the Camino
    Sometimes in towns you have to look hard for the trail markers
    It’s harvest season, but not every grape makes it to crush
    Vineyard leaves turning red
    The only shade for a long stretch was beside this irrigation pumphouse.
    Tomato harvest
    My tasty ham & cheese lunch
    It’s election season as well. His shirt says he supports the socialist party
    I love the contrast. Electronic key code to get in the front door then skeleton key for the room.
    Golega is a world renowned center for horse breeding.
  • Day 3 – September 13

    Day 3 – September 13

    According to the guidebook, today’s stage was 32 km long ending in the town of Santarem. My feet are sore and my original plan was to cut the day in half and stop near the midpoint of Valdera. But when I reached Valdera, I discovered that all of the hotels in town were booked and the alberge, which only slept six didn’t open up for another 5 1/2 hours ..

    Given that choice, I decided I should march on to Santarem. My original hesitation had mostly to do with the fact that between the two towns there were 16 km (10 miles) with no services whatsoever.   Just a gravel road going through farmland, comprised primarily of tomatoes and vineyards.

    As with yesterday, shade was at a premium. Although I am still walking at my 5KM plus per hour pace I am taking more stops and giving my feet rest every 3 to 5 km. When lunchtime approached I was just passing the 20 km mark and still 12km from the nearest services. I found a bend in the road with shade trees that provided a sufficient refuge for my lunch.

    While sitting here, Maris, the Estonian who slept in the bunkhouse with me last night, walked by. In conversation, he advised me that there was no alberge in Santarem and all of the facilities there have potential for reservations. He strongly encouraged me reserve a bed before we got there. I pulled up booking.com and discovered that the hostel that he was staying in only had two beds left so I quickly reserved one of them.

    Shade was so rare that when there was a tree, you’d find 2-3 pilgrims under it getting some relief.

    The day was grueling, but the hostel is very new and modern.  I understand it sleeps 94, but the rooms are smaller.  Mine only has two bunkbeds in it. Maris has the other lower bunk and we’re waiting to see who are roommates are.  

    I am very grateful that Thomas the Dane will not be one of them.  He’s checked in to another room.  That dude was the loudest snorer I’ve ever been around and every time he switched positions, it was like an earthquake.  

    I’ve now walked 90,000 step in the past two days. Unfortunately, that trend continues as the next three days are all listed as over 30k.

    Sunrise over a canal
    Tomato fields mid-harvest
    The road was littered with tomatoes falling from trucks
    Stork nests
    Tagus river
    Snails like power poles too
    Ancient and modern trail markers
    Red pepper harvest
    Tons of bikers on the trail today
    Grape harvesting machine
    After 30 kilometers of hiking, it’s depressing to see your destination up on top of a hill
    Ancient fountains for the pilgrims. Sorry about the finger in the frame
  • First night in alberge

    First night in alberge

    By staying in hotels with shared baths the past few nights, I kind of dipped my toes into the pool of alberge living – but it was definitely the shallow end and only the tip of my toes.

    Shoes are left by the front door

    The Azambuja perigrino alberge qualified as the deep end.   Accommodations for 15 in one room – 7 sets of bunk beds and one mattress on the floor.  A toilet room with two stalls – and a door so thin everyone could hear whatever was going on.  A wash room with two private shower stalls and two sinks.

    The common room featured a large dinner table, a very comfy couch and a small kitchen.

    Common room

    There was a walled back yard with a utility sink with built-in scrub-board for washing clothes.  A few small round tables and chairs.  But the major feature was the multiple clothes lines all in use drying the day’s sweaty clothing.  

    When you are living in such tight communal spaces, there are certain etiquettes to be practiced.  

    Last night, New Zealand Dan, Tennessee Christi and I went down the street for dinner.  Christi and I were both Camino rookies.  In contrast, Dan was doing his 20th.  I had read before how important it is to be quiet in the sleeping area – especially if you are an early riser (like me).  Dan said he always has his pack fully set before going to sleep.  Anything needed in the morning is in his hat.  You roll out of bed, grab your hat, pack and whatever you had for sleeping and take them out to the community room to finish packing.  

    Unfortunately, when we returned to the alberge from our dinner at around 8 PM, the sleeping porch lights were off and half a dozen people were already asleep. So I was not able to fully put this plan into place. But I have the strategy now and will make sure in the future that I can grab and go quickly.